Off to Johnson City again for an art walk saunter. My friend and I stopped in at the 290 Vinery and were introduced to a lively sampling of their 2017 varietals, including Caught Red Handed, Little White Lies and Seriously Red. Like many inviting outdoor patio and garden spaces in town, the gorgeous oaks that frame their simple, elegant winery will provide a great Autumn tasting experience. Alison Lanik (our host and manager) works with her mom, Susan Kirchman, who co-founded the Taste Gallery with her husband, Warren Vilmaire, which evolved into the 290 Vinery. Definitely a family with style.
TeXCeTerA Gallery was our next stop. Featured artists Cindy Cherrington and Deb Wight in the Nature of Glass show team up at other hill country events and have some beautiful pieces at prices you won’t find in Austin. Art lovers can’t go wrong with this easy drive and the promise of something for everyone. Echo, the non-art art gallery is more than an art or curio shop, it’s a collector’s field of dreams. I included a few pieces in the gallery below, which cannot adequately represent the overwhelming array of objects d’art. Janet Haynes, a long time Johnson City resident, was featured in the small gallery in the back of this sprawling store.
After revisiting the A.Smith Gallery and Texas Arthouse, we went to Studio Massaro and had a great talk with Catherine, the artist and gallery owner. Like many of the artists and gallery owners I’ve met in Johnson City, she is well-traveled and accomplished. They are happy with their growing community and welcome art lovers and foodies alike. I’ve been impressed in both my visits, finding kindred souls who are thriving and living their passion.
Vaudeville broke sexual, gender, racial and cultural taboos and continues its evolution today in performances by Colbert, on Saturday Night Live and in many live venues worldwide. I was also struck by it as an early prototype of the internet – browsing an oddball collection of incidental entertainment.
Comedian George Gordon Fuller created the Vaudeville Managers Association, or White Rats Union, originally open only to white impresarios. As the demand grew and the shows evolved, women and black entertainers started circuits and shows of their own. Both white and black actors used black face and minstrel formats, some black artists ironically. You can see some of the musicians and stars who progressed into the movie and TV era with much more power than their Vaudeville predecessors.
Drag shows are nothing new. Few performers had careers that were as vaunted and long lasting as drag sensation Vander Clyde/Dora Kallmus from Austria, known internationally as Barbette.
Sex, music, magic, comedy and drama still exert their fascination. The exhibit is up until July 15th. Go see the show!
After a tip from the Austin Monthly about the growing art scene in Johnson City I sauntered over to see for myself. Despite construction along parts of 290 (and whatever Dripping Springs is morphing into) I felt more like a friend than a stranger driving through the scenic hill country. I skipped Lyndon’s boyhood home (which is actually cool) stopped for a quick view of the Pedernales River and headed into town.
My first stop was the A.Smith Gallery. Amanda Smith and Kevin Tully are the gallery directors and artists in residence. The current exhibit of juried (by Kate Breakey) photographs and sculpture is tastefully curated in an inviting gallery and salon space. Amanda and Kevin offer workshops and events to keep things lively in between last Saturday art walks, which I’m looking forward to.
Mark L. Smith , one of the founding members of Flatbed Press and owner of the Texas Arthouse Gallery, has a storied history in Austin as both a University of Texas professor and dean and as a fine art consultant for museums and collectors. He is a self-described Raushenbergian, who remains a strong influence on his style. My conversations with Amanda Smith and with Mark Smith at the Texas Arthouse were lively and inspiring, which didn’t leave me time to visit other galleries. I’ll remedy that when I attend the art walk on June 30th. Both galleries are open by appointment and on the weekends, don’t miss them.
I stopped at the Science Mill briefly, which was abuzz with children of all ages. Mark Smith at the Arthouse Gallery said the cultural scene in Johnson City was focused more on fine art and its intersection with science, rather than the typical hodgepodge of antiques and collectibles. Don’t despair, Johnson City still has a few shops for flea market fans. For families considering a day trip to the hill country, the exhibits at the Science Mill offer a nice variety of kid friendly options between gallery and restaurant strolls. Their Summer Camps are also getting rave reviews and increasing a broad array of sponsorships.
By the time I checked in at Bryan’s on 290 for lunch, I was hot and hungry. The lightly dusted shrimp with cajun grits and roasted brussel sprouts were delectable and the conversation engaging. News of Anthony Bourdain’s passing that day shook the food community and we toasted to his life over a glass of Vino Bianco, a special selection from “The Piedmont Guy“. Servers and management were friendly and knowledgable and I insisted on taking a picture of the kitchen crew as a tribute to Bourdain’s friendship and support of cooks everywhere. I highly recommend Bryan’s, but there are many other enticing options in and around town.
I visited Johnson City in April of 2012 but it has since grown into a vital arts community with something for everyone. It will be interesting to go back for the Last Saturday Art Walk on June 30th to visit some of the galleries and restaurants I missed this time. Enthusiastic two thumbs up for a day trip!
Sometime when I’m walking
the breeze shifts, blowing from
the mouth of the universe
Whispered waves of indigo
and bluebonnet perfume
seeping into every pore
Lifting my heart into bliss and
flowing back to the sea of flowers
in a waterfall of love
I’ve been looking forward to seeing the new Central Library, an evolutionary leap into the future of community reading and reflection. To get the most from my visit, I walked from the hike and bike trail, a luxury I truly enjoy.
There is always construction in downtown Austin, an eager beaver metropolis bent on eliminating the very things that made it so delightful. The new Central Library, however, is an investment in our collective soul. It’s shiny and new, but mindful of our need to find a shared sanctuary. This is a cathedral of libraries, a stadium among warehouses. The reading rooms are varied, the design flows aesthetically and there are good reading nooks everywhere.
Art and music spaces and rooms to write and collaborate are sprinkled throughout. The Lance Letscher and the Armadillo Art Squad exhibits were authentically weird and brought back fond memories of great Austin eras in music and art.
With so many nooks and crannies to explore, the Austin Central Library is a perfect place to rediscover your joy in reading. For many screen junkies, this will be a great way to fall in love with a good book and get off the endless cycle of bad news. Saunter over, it’s a beautiful day.
It’s impossible to resist the allure of a sunny autumn day, so I took my camera with me to the hike and bike trail at Ladybird Lake. Since you never know what will catch your eye, I started architecturally and flowed into the colors of fall vegetation. Rest in joy Chris, remembering your sweet smile and SRV tearing it up at Auditorium Shores.
From Cannon Beach, I headed south to Yachats, often referred to as the Gem of the Oregon Coast. The beaches got rockier and towns dotting the coastline smaller and more picturesque. Depoe Bay, where grey whales come to graze along the shoreline, is a magnet for tourists. I caught a glimpse of a whale back nearby and two spouts offshore, which I heard was a mother and her calf.
In Yachats, I stayed at the Fireside Motel, up close and personal with the spectacular, rocky ocean views that make the Cape Perpetua area such a draw.
You can’t have too many transporting moments on a nature trip. But, it was at the Drift Inn, while enjoying a rare offering of Mediterranean mushroom crepes, that I experienced that special feeling of connection. Maybe it was the waitress with the blue hair, the murals keeping it weird, or Richard Sharpless on guitar, but I felt a gemutlichkeit as I listened to the music and watched people of all ages and kinds enjoying a communal meal. Nothing like a warm, golden glow and friendly people to make your visit memorable.
Another beautiful sunset greeted me on my way back to the hotel.
The next morning I was off and sauntering, in search of tide pools and sea creatures. The wind rippling the water created some fabulous painterly effects, an unexpected bonus.
All in all a wonderful, rejuvenating jaunt. When one experiences major life changes, it always helps to pause, recenter and find your compass. Between the ocean’s roar, the towering forests and the gorgeous beaches, I found mine in resonance with the beauty of the Oregon Coast. I’ll be heading back, sauntering north along Washington’s Pacific Coast trail and looking forward to taking the train into Vancouver.